It was the primary clear morning over Lake Tahoe in two months, and Tom Fortune felt like he may lastly exhale.
Fortune is the supervisor of Heavenly Mountain Resort, Lake Tahoe’s largest contiguous ski space, in an iconic mountain setting that rises from the lake’s southern edge and spans the California-Nevada border. He walked throughout the car parking zone on the resort’s California base, clad in a blue shell jacket and clunking in ski boots. He’s 61 years previous, with gentle hair and weathered options befitting somebody who has labored and performed outdoor his entire life.
Greater than 25 ft of snow fell on the mountains in December and early January, and Heavenly was working out of locations to stash it. Snowcats and plows had shoved it into 20-foot-high banks across the lot, besides, Fortune had been compelled to commandeer about 100 of Heavenly’s valuable parking areas for snow storage.
“It’s a type of good issues to have,” Fortune mentioned of the heavy snow. “But it surely’s good to have a break, lastly!”
In the end a ski space supervisor’s job is to maneuver individuals and snow round a mountain as effectively as doable. It sounds easy, however the enterprise is difficult.
Skiers and snowboarders make their approach down a run at Heavenly Mountain Resort in South Lake Tahoe.
Brontë Wittpenn / The ChronicleWinter climate, the spine of the ski business, has been as erratic as anybody can bear in mind — burying Tahoe in historic quantities of snow between alarmingly dry durations. These swings are broadly attributed to local weather change, which has additionally begun to threaten Tahoe ski areas through the offseason with super-charged wildfires. A yr and a half in the past, the Caldor Fireplace scorched Sierra-at-Tahoe and threatened Kirkwood and Heavenly earlier than it was introduced underneath management.
Extra broadly, the early period of mom-and-pop operations has given solution to what some describe as a company arms race to scoop up ski areas and roll them into nationwide go packages like Vail Resorts’ Epic, which Heavenly is a part of, and Alterra Mountain Co.’s Ikon. These are likely to funnel excessive volumes of skiers to particular resorts when the snow is nice in a single area, and complaints about lengthy raise strains and ski site visitors are louder than ever.
Snowboarding is steeped in custom, however the pandemic compelled a rethinking of norms and a modernization of enterprise practices. Whereas ski areas have embraced modifications to their operations, some capital enhancements bespeak the strain Tahoe resorts really feel to maintain tempo with developments at snowboarding locations throughout the West and even overseas (see Palisades Tahoe’s new $65 million mountain gondola).
In lots of respects, Heavenly is on the heart of those dynamics, and Fortune helps steer its future. Not solely does he handle Heavenly straight, he additionally oversees Northstar and Kirkwood as vp and chief working officer of the Tahoe area for Vail Resorts, the business goliath that owns 41 ski resorts all over the world. He additionally serves as chair of the business affiliation Ski California and sits on the board of the Lake Tahoe Guests Authority.
Fortune, who grew up close to Stevens Move Ski Resort in Washington and has lived in South Lake Tahoe for 13 years, is a lifer. He met his spouse at a ski space. The couple raised their three youngsters at ski areas, and all three now work for ski areas within the West — and can little question elevate their very own households at ski areas.
“That is my forty fourth ski season. I’ve seen all of it,” mentioned Fortune, seated behind his workplace desk at Heavenly. “I say that, and now one thing bizarre will occur.”
He shortly knocked on wooden — the behavior of a person whose enterprise is topic to Mom Nature’s mysterious rhythms.
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Inside Heavenly’s dispatch heart, a cavernous area with a single porthole in a single wall for air flow, Fortune and two operators seemed over six screens feeding data on climate forecasts and chairlift operations. The workplace is the resort’s brainstem: it fields emergency calls, coordinates rescues, communicates with ski patrol and displays each facet of the mountain.
“Just about something that must be dealt with comes by way of right here,” Fortune mentioned.

Dispatcher Corinn Thompson receives a name at Heavenly Mountain Resort in South Lake Tahoe.
Brontë Wittpenn / The ChronicleThe ten-week spate of unceasing climate that subsided in mid-January made for a difficult begin to winter for all of Tahoe’s 10 main resorts. At Heavenly, excessive winds and heavy snow, in addition to a 2-day energy outage, grounded the resort’s centerpiece gondola, which picks up skiers in downtown South Lake Tahoe, for all however a number of days through the busy vacation season. When it shuts down, it successfully bifurcates Heavenly into two small resorts — one in Nevada, one in California — severely limiting skier mobility.
In these instances, Heavenly will get an earful from annoyed skiers on social media. Some are cynical concerning the accuracy with which ski areas report the happenings on their mountains; they consider resorts exaggerate snow depths and conceal raise closures for worry of dissuading potential clients.
Below Fortune, Heavenly has grow to be vigilant about posting moment-by-moment updates to Twitter and Instagram on raise operations and mountain situations. Generally Fortune addresses commenters straight on the platforms. That type of transparency is turning into the norm, particularly at bigger resorts that typically draw a number of thousand skiers a day.
“Visitors are happier once they know what’s happening, even when it’s not excellent news,” Fortune mentioned. “It’s a superb route to be heading, as an business.”
Leaving the workplace, Fortune stopped at a poster printout of the Caldor Fireplace burn zone tacked to the wall. “This brings again some recollections,” he mentioned.
A yr and a half in the past, Caldor burned 222,000 acres within the Sierra and got here inside a quarter-mile of Heavenly. Through the top of the blaze, South Lake Tahoe was evacuated for 3 weeks. Cal Fireplace staged its incident command in Heavenly’s car parking zone, whereas the resort ran its snowmaking weapons around the clock to stave off an ember ignition. Fortune decamped to a resort at Northstar in Truckee and coordinated protection from there.

Snowboarders relaxation close to the Sky Specific chairlift at Heavenly Mountain Resort.
Brontë Wittpenn / The ChronicleHaving hundreds of firefighters at Heavenly “was type of reassuring,” he mentioned. “I actually consider our snowmaking saved the hearth from burning the entire mountain.”
The ski business broadly acknowledges local weather change as an impediment to enterprise however has stopped wanting recognizing it because the existential menace to the exercise some consultants make it out to be. Fortune is optimistic that resorts can survive in the event that they refill on snowmaking gear and develop their summertime choices to vacationers as Heavenly has with its year-round gondola and gravity-powered on-mountain curler coaster.
“Over the course of my 44 years, winter was once actually constant,” Fortune mentioned. “Now, we’re having to study to deal in extremes all yr lengthy.
“Know-how will enable us to maneuver alongside, however I don’t consider local weather change goes away,” he mentioned. “It’s actual, and it’s type of scary.”
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Below the mid-morning solar, skiers and snowboarders carved Heavenly’s freshly groomed trails, a few of which hadn’t been accessible for a number of days within the tough climate. Fortune rode the lifts to his favourite spot, excessive on the mountain. In that vary, the evergreen pines have been plastered with ice, twisted and frozen into what Fortune known as “snow ghosts” — a white forest that seemed like a bleached coral reef.
From a ten,000-foot perch known as Prime of Sky, Fortune seemed over the snow-crusted crescent of South Lake, pressed to the sting of Tahoe’s flat cobalt expanse.
“These are the moments you may’t consider you get to do that for a residing,” he mentioned.

A snowboarder approaches a leap close to the Sky Specific chairlift overlooking Lake Tahoe at Heavenly Mountain Resort.
Brontë Wittpenn / The ChronicleFortune mentioned his profession is winding down, although he’s not retiring anytime quickly. In his ultimate act he desires to steward Heavenly safely into the unsure future.
“I bear in mind coming right here for spring snowboarding as a youngster from Washington and pondering, my gosh, Heavenly is the best place,” he mentioned. “My legacy, I hope, is preserving among the issues that make this place iconic.”
Having the backing of Vail is a significant aggressive benefit, he mentioned. The corporate poured $320 million into capital enhancements at 14 of its resorts final yr, which included swapping out a pair of growing old chairlifts at Heavenly and Northstar with new high-speed replacements. Up subsequent at Heavenly is a brand new gearbox and driveshaft for the gondola — enhancements that nobody will discover however will prolong the machine’s lifespan by many years.
Fortune has a number of extra upgrades on his wishlist.
Excessive winds that power the gondola to close down are a thorn in Heavenly’s aspect, however he has a few concepts. The primary is constructing a brand new interstate raise that will facilitate ski journey from Heavenly’s California half to its Nevada aspect even in very gusty situations, alongside a considerably wind-protected ridge. The idea is included in Heavenly’s U.S. Forest Service-approved grasp plan, however most likely a methods away, Fortune mentioned.

A tram passes by way of Heavenly Mountain Resort in South Lake Tahoe.
Brontë Wittpenn / The ChronicleAn even bigger repair can be to outfit the gondola with a tri-cable setup to make the passenger cabins extra secure in excessive wind. “That’s not a short-term factor in any respect, however having a extra constant gondola sooner or later can be nice,” Fortune mentioned.
Lastly, changing the previous Boulder raise out of the Nevada base would considerably lower the experience time to Heavenly’s higher mountain. “It’d be a transformational change to that a part of the mountain,” Fortune mentioned.
Close to the top of the day, Fortune skied the quick turns of a pure again to the California base. It was the primary day he’d been capable of tour the mountain in a month and he was feeling refreshed and energetic.
“Folks have sturdy recollections of this place, and I’ve a duty to that incredible historical past,” he mentioned. “However I even have a duty to proceed proposing modifications to modernize and enhance the resort. That’s the steadiness, and I feel it’ll be cool to see this place proceed on for future generations.”
Gregory Thomas is The San Francisco Chronicle’s editor of way of life and outdoor. Electronic mail: gthomas@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @GregRThomas